Gua Sha 101: How to Use TikTok's Hottest Beauty Tool, According to Experts

If you've been on Instagram or TikTok, you've probably noticed that one of the most ancient beauty tools is taking over the world, one contoured and plump face at a time. Yes, we're talking about gua sha (aka the Botox of the East).

Fans of the tool report real, noticeable results, like firmer, smoother skin and less acne, blemishes, and eczema. It sounds too good to be true, right? Well, we consulted skincare and traditional Chinese medicine practicing experts Sandra Lanshin Chiu and Anna Lam to find the most effective methods to use your little tool in order to deliver the best results.

Read on for everything you need to know about facial gua sha.

What Is Gua Sha?

"Facial gua sha is a relatively new 'cosmetic' treatment derived from traditional gua sha, which is practiced on the body and is an important technique in traditional Chinese medicine," said Chiu. "Facial gua sha uses a smooth tool, often jade or quartz, to slowly stroke the face and neck, improving circulation and releasing tension."

Chiu added that the practice dates back a long time — some records suggest as far back as the Paleolithic era. 

"Historically, tools were made from various types of materials like stones, coins, horns. Gua sha was used to treat pain and illnesses as serious as cholera," said Chiu. 

Today, gua sha — as Chiu explained — is still used by traditional Chinese medicine practitioners to "treat pain and boost immune function."

How Gua Sha Works

"The gua sha technique, which translates to 'scrape wind,' was primarily first used on the body to release toxins and relieve pain in tired, sore, or injured muscles," said Lam. "By 'scraping' with repeated strokes on the surface of the skin, the gua sha helps stimulate new blood flow and draw out stagnation in the problem areas to help generate metabolic cell repair and healing."

Fear not, because while the traditional practice for your body is much more aggressive, resulting in bruising, Chiu said facial gua sha is meant to be performed at a much slower speed with much less pressure. In fact, when it comes to your face, Chiu advised to take the "less is more approach."

The Benefits of Gua Sha

Consistent practice can lead to noticeable results over time. Among them? Clearer, brighter, and tighter skin with fewer wrinkles, fine lines, and blemishes, according to Lam. However, the benefits don't stop there.

"Gua sha is a practice intended to invigorate the healthy circulation of muscles and tissues that feed the skin, so I look at it as a health practice that has 'cosmetic side effects' like glowing skin and softening lines," said Chiu. "Improved circulation creates visible changes: reduced puffiness, smoother complexion, softened lines, reduced sagging, sculpt and lift to facial features, adds volume to sunken features, and it can even help acne heal faster."

The pros of using gua sha aren't just cosmetic. 

"Facial gua sha is wonderful for releasing knots in the face, neck, and shoulders," added Chiu. "Many of the benefits are immediate, so it's an ideal technique for relief from headaches, sinus congestion, or a tight/painful jaw."

How to Use the Gua Sha Tool on Your Face

If you're new to gua sha, the good news is that using the tool is relatively straightforward. 

"Hold the gua sha tool with the curved side to your face and glide it gently up and out, starting with the neck, jawline, chin, and around the mouth, between three and five times per area," instructed Lam. "Then sweep across cheeks and gently glide under the eyes, across your eyebrows, and from your forehead up to your hairline."

As for how often you do this treatment, Lam recommended at least a few times a week, while Chiu told us you can gua sha daily. Although you can practice gua sha at any point during the day, incorporating it into your nightly facial routine is a great way to stick to the practice, noted Chiu.

"Gua sha is best done after both cleansing the face and applying a moisturizer or facial oil," added Lam. "Gua massage not only gives your skin a 'workout' but also helps products' nutrients absorb better into skin."

How to Choose a Gua Sha Tool

Lam suggested picking the tool you feel most drawn to, as there's no one model that works best, telling us, "They should all be carved with curves, rounded knobs, and points to fit within the curvatures of the face and press down on the meridian points," before adding, "or pressure points in which traditional Chinese medicine practitioners believe vital life energy known as Qi flows through.

The same goes for the crystal you choose for your gua sha: Find your favorite and stick with it. There's rose quartz, jade, amethyst, and tiger's eye, too. 

"Each stone is known to have different healing properties, but all should provide similar results as it's more about the gua sha technique than the crystal of choice," said Lam. 

However, Lam added that jade is traditionally used because it's cool to the touch and has detoxifying properties.

Gua Sha vs. Jade Roller

Gua sha tools and jade rollers often get grouped into the same holistic facial massage bucket; however, they bare some key differences. A jade roller is a simple tool — with one shape and one motion — often used to achieve more effective product penetration, lymphatic circulation, and overall relaxation. On the other hand, a gua sha tool has a unique shape with different edges that can contour your face, improve circulation, penetrate products, and relax tense muscles. Its benefits come from the motion rather than the material.

According to Chiu, the strokes applied during the gua sha process create stretching of the skin, which leads to myofascial release (face muscle relaxation and improvement of circulation). The scraper — as Lam noted — is used in stroking motion "over the facial curvatures in an attempt to bring new blood to the surface and promote lymphatic drainage." 

"Gua sha relaxes tension in facial muscles, which can cause lines. It's kind of like exercise for your face — with regular use, gua sha can tone skin and promote increased skin elasticity," Lam added.

The Bottom Line on Gua Sha

After consistent practice, facial gua sha can wield benefits like tighter, brighter, tauter, and smoother skin. Plus, according to traditional Chinese medicine, gua sha improves circulation and creates healthy energy. Embracing the practice may leave you feeling good — both inside and out.

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