How to Use Retinol on Dry Skin, According to Dermatologists

For those with dry skin — not to be confused with dehydrated skin — there may be some hesitation with using retinol to combat it. Although the ingredient is praised for its anti-aging benefits, it sometimes gets a bad rap due to its irritating side effects (#retinoluglies). This can affect all skin types but can exacerbate dry, flaky patches even more. 

"The first sign of irritation is typically a burning sensation when applying lotion or cream," Dr. Robert Finney told us. "So if you don't right the ship at this point, redness and peeling are lurking right around the corner."

However, just because your skin may be more prone to dryness doesn't necessarily mean you have to forgo using vitamin A1 altogether. Despite popular belief, retinol can actually benefit dry skin types. The trick, of course, is knowing how to use the active ingredient correctly to maximize its benefits and avoid any adverse effects. To find out how, we tapped Dr. Finney and Dr. Alicia Zalka.

Keep scrolling for seven dermatologist-approved tips for using retinol on dry skin.

Double Up on Moisturizer

It may sound obvious, but moisturizing is key to landing healthy, hydrated skin — especially when using retinol. 

"For starters, thicken up your moisturizer to something that is more cream-based but still non-comedogenic," suggested Dr. Finney. 

He recommended the Alastin Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer ($78), which has collagen-stimulating peptides.

If you notice any signs of sensitivity, Dr. Finney advised sandwiching your retinol in between two layers of moisturizer to help prevent dryness, peeling, or flaking. When choosing a moisturizer, Dr. Zalka said to look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, or squalane.

Don't Mix Retinol with Exfoliants

Until your skin proves tolerant of retinol use, you may want to hold out on combining retinol with other active exfoliating products, noted Dr. Zalka, who added that these include alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid. Although retinol is not an exfoliant, it still promotes cell turnover. So, if you exfoliate, consider waiting until the following day to apply a retinol product.

VIDEO: Jennifer Hudson Uses This $33 Retinol Cream for Glowing Skin

Decrease How Often You Apply Retinol

Not all skin types can tolerate using retinol daily. If you're experiencing dryness and think your retinol isn't helping, Dr. Finney recommended decreasing usage to every other night or less. Then, you can increase frequency again as your skin becomes more tolerable.

Don't Overdo the Application

When we want our skincare products to work better and faster, we have a tendency to really lather them on. However, according to Dr. Zalka, that can be wasteful and counterproductive. Do not apply more than the suggested amount on the packaging, advised Dr. Zalka. 

"Retinol-containing products should always be thought of as a treatment, not a moisturizer, which means to use it sparingly and do not coat the entire skin surface with it," she said.

Opt for a Lower Strength Retinol

To avoid dryness and irritation, consider easing into your retinol use. 

"I suggest choosing milder forms of retinol, such as drugstore brands or brands designed for sensitive skin versus prescription tretinoin creams you get from your doctor," said Dr. Zalka. "Adapalene is one example of a retinol compound that has a gentler effect on the skin." 

One to try is the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Treatment ($36).

Apply Retinol to Dry Skin

One of the golden rules of skincare application is to apply moisturizer while your skin is still damp to increase absorption. However, when it comes to retinol, Dr. Zalka recommended the opposite. She advised applying retinol while your skin is dry so that it isn't as potent and, therefore, less likely to cause any irritations.

Try a Retinol Alternative

Looking for a gentler, natural alternative to retinol? Consider bakuchiol. The plant-derived anti-aging ingredient stimulates collagen production while boasting anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. Bonus: It works ace on acne-prone skin.