How the Chanel Ballet Flat Became a Style Icon

Ok, let's get one thing straight: Ballet flats have always been in style. Sorry, we just had to let that out. Anyways, we understand that at this very moment, ballet flats appear to be a "trendy item" due to the runway-to-TikTok pipeline trend of balletcore. Additionally, thanks to the indie sleaze revival creeping its way back onto the horizon, we're reminded of the it-girls of fashions past and their affinity for ballet flats and skinny jeans. But don’t let this distract you from the fact that ballet flats are a classic footwear choice.

Rewinding to the 1950s, icons like Brigitte Bardot and Audrey Hepburn immortalized ballet flats on the silver screen, with Bardot popularizing Cendrillon Repetto flats in “And God Created Woman” and Hepburn in “Funny Face” and “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” These moments cemented ballet flats as the epitome of “effortless chic.” If you read any article or ask any fashion insider for a list of wardrobe staples every woman needs, a great pair of ballet flats typically make the list. Often suggested as an investment piece, this feminine shoe is timeless, versatile, and easy to wear. But there's one prima ballerina in this bunch, and that is the Chanel ballet flat. 

Origins of the Chanel Ballet Flat

The iconic Chanel ballet flat we all know and love is courtesy of Karl Lagerfeld, whose inspiration stemmed from a pivotal piece of Chanel history. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, renowned for liberating women from the constricting fashions of her era–such as corsets, extended her revolutionary vision beyond ready-to-wear. In 1957, in collaboration with shoemaker Massaro, she unveiled the two-toned slingback. Rejecting the high-heel trend, Chanel opted for a modest, comfortable heel in beige leather to elongate the leg, coupled with a black toe to make the foot appear smaller. These slingbacks rapidly joined the ranks of iconic Chanel creations like the quilted bag and the little black dress.

Fast forward to Karl Lagerfeld's era, 27 years after Chanel and Massaro's introduction of the slingback, where he transformed the heel into the classic ballet flat. Drawing inspiration from the original two-tone leather design, the ballet flat made its debut in the Spring/Summer 1984 collection, featuring beige leather with a contrasting black toe cap. The launch was accompanied by an iconic campaign featuring Inès de la Fressange, captured by the lens of Helmut Newton.

Who Has Worn Chanel Flats

Chanel flats have long been the go-to for it-girls, firmly securing their spot as a timeless classic. Why are they such a staple? Well, these iconic shoes are constantly reinvented in various colorways and materials, ranging from luxe tweed, satin, and velvet to the ever-sleek patent and classic leather. And it's not just about the base material—these ballet flats have been adorned with chic embellishments like pearls, sequins, and crystals. These variations not only demonstrate the ballet flat’s versatility but also its ability to stay in style. The key to classic status? While Chanel keeps delivering new and trendy iterations each season, you can always count on finding the classic versions. The magic of Chanel lies in blending the new with the timeless, ensuring these flats never fade from fashion.

Lindsay Lohan a la early aughts (who was once a Chanel darling) spotted in a neon-pink pair to match the ostentatious Y2K style of the time.

Alexa Chung ushering in the “indie sleaze” era in a striped sweater and overall dress complemented by the ever so important all black ballerina.

Fast forward to today, Meghan Markle was spotted in the iconic beige and black colorway that she chose to pair with a classic ensemble emphasizing the timeless allure of Chanel ballet flats. 

How to Style Chanel Ballet Flats

Now that we’ve seen the versatility of this shoe through the ages let’s break down how to wear them today. We tapped stylist Julia Gall to share some tips. “A Chanel ballet flat is one of the most versatile shoes and classic shoes on the market currently," she says. "I love wearing a ballet flat with basically anything, but I think a really fresh way to wear them now is to juxtapose the super delicate shape of the flat with a more extreme silhouette like a baggy jean or a really voluminous kind of puff dress or skirt. I think that having that super delicate shoe on the bottom and something big and statement-making on the top really is a fun way to wear this classic shape."

Going for the “balletcore” ballerina off-duty look is always a great option. Try leggings with a little cardigan or a fuzzy sweater on top.

"Finally, you can’t go wrong with a classic French cool girl vibe, try a longer hem jean, a baby tee, and an easy cropped sweater or jacket on top, I think is always a classic, super classic way to do it,” says Gall.

Investing in Chanel Ballet Flats

Starting at $975 per pair Chanel ballet flats are an investment. But their classic status, quality, and versatility justify the price. We want to make sure you’re making a well-informed purchase so we turned to Michal Kurtis, a luxury fashion consultant, for expert insights. Focusing on comfort and fit, regarding whether Chanel flats stretch, Kurtis notes, “Depends on the fabrication. The soft leather styles have some give, but I recently bought a pink vintage heart-printed canvas pair and those aren’t going to shapeshift one bit.”

For first-time buyers, Kurtis advises caution with sizing: “Be aware, Chanel ballet flats often run small. As someone who is a rather consistent 37.5 across the brand spectrum, I tend to size up by a half size and even have friends that had to go a full size bigger. In fact, the canvas pair I just spoke of will have to go back as I didn’t learn the first time.” This advice underscores the importance of trying different sizes to find the perfect fit, especially when investing in a luxury item like Chanel flats.

Another important aspect is maintenance. Gall provides tips for caring for your Chanel flats: "For maintaining Chanel ballet flats, the approach depends on your lifestyle and how often you plan to wear them. For city dwellers, darker tones like black or navy are practical as they conceal wear and tear from daily use. Those who drive more and are careful with their shoes might opt for lighter, brighter colors. Chanel ballet flats retain their value so keeping the shoes in good condition is important, especially if you plan to resell them. Using Soul Saver adhesives can protect the soles."

While Chanel flats do maintain their quality shape and structure over time, regular maintenance is key. Treat the shoes at least once a season or annually with a trusted cobbler for cleaning, polishing, and repairs, especially for lighter tones to keep them looking fresh. Leather care is essential to prevent cracking. It’s important to get ahead of it, if you’ve worn them to smithereens, they’re hard to maintain from that point forward. Regular check-ins with your cobbler can prevent major damage and prolong the shoe’s life, ensuring they last for years, even decades.

The Takeaway

Nearly four decades since their debut on the Spring/Summer 1984 runway, Chanel ballet flats remain as iconic as ever. These shoes have withstood the ebb and flow of fashion trends, solidifying their status as a quintessential wardrobe staple. Their remarkable versatility, which allows them to complement a wide range of styles, has made them a cherished favorite across generations. Worn by fashion's most celebrated it-girls of yesterday, today, and surely tomorrow, the enduring allure of Chanel ballet flats is undeniable.