501s at 150: Looking Back at a Denim Icon

The Making of the Modern Blue Jean

The story of the 501 begins during the California gold rush, when a tailor named Jacob Davis teamed up with dry goods supplier Levi Strauss to create durable work pants, or “waist overalls,” using copper rivets to strengthen the silhouette. In 1873, they patented the version that would become the 501 Original, and it quickly became the pant of choice for ranchers, pioneers, and prospectors throughout the American West. Flash forward to the 1930s, and these sturdy work pants started cropping up in advertisements that romanticized the pioneering spirit of cowboys and rodeo riders.

Around the same time, fashion magazines were inspiring upper-class women to travel to dude ranches for a taste of life on the range. No trip to sagebrush country was complete without a pair of practical jeans, and Levi’s quickly filled the market gap with new 401 and 701 styles for women, called Lady Levi’s. As seen on display at the Levi’s 501 Experience in San Francisco this May, and the details felt surprisingly current; a flattering high-waist silhouette, straight legs, and a rich blue wash make them look right at home in any Brooklyn vintage shop.

The final changes to the 501 came during and after WWII, when the government asked companies to ration materials for the war effort. The 501s of the early 1940s were simplified accordingly, and details like the back cinch were removed once and for all. The definitive blueprint of the 501 was created in 1947, and while trends have influenced its rise, wash, and taper, the silhouette has remained much the same since. In the words of Levi’s Design Director Paul O’Neill, the style had reached perfection. “I don’t believe the 501 has changed much since the late 1940s, and I think that consistency is what makes it a classic,” he explains. “I don’t design the 501, I’m its custodian.”

A Pop Culture Icon

The 501 entered the popular consciousness in 1939 with the debut of Stagecoach, a now-classic Western film starring John Wayne as Ringo Kid wearing Levi’s 501 Originals. It instantly became synonymous with adventure and the American spirit. In the 1950s, it was embraced by Beatniks like Jack Kerouack and Neal Cassidy, as well as movie stars like Marlon Brando, who irreverently wears his 501s in the outlaw biker film The Wild One. In the 1960s, stars like Marilyn Monroe showed a more glamorous side to the 501.

Meanwhile, activists and artists like Bob Dylan and Patti Smith made 501s their own by customizing them with drawings, patches, and embroidery.

In 1984, Levi’s as the company was named the official outfitter of the U.S. Olympic Team. The brand released an iconic series of commercials called “501 Blues” to mark the occasion, featuring then up-and-coming actors like Bruce Willis, Jason Alexander, and Brad Pitt wearing their signature shrink-to-fit jeans about town, alongside a bluesy soundtrack.

By this time, the jeans were so iconic, they were even coveted behind the Iron Curtain during the Cold War — so much so that they were actually traded as currency on the black market. “They were traded not only as items of value, but because they represented freedom,” Levi’s Historian Tracey Panek explains. “They symbolized the dreams of young people who wanted to be able to wear them.”

The 1990s were a defining time for the 501, which had officially gone global. From actors and artists to musicians and tech innovators, the 501 was everywhere and seemed to suit everyone. Even fashion magazines were on the bandwagon: British Vogue's January 1990 cover shows supermodels Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, and Christy Turlington, all wearing 501s. TIME dubbed the 501 jean the “Fashion Item of the 20th Century,” further solidifying its status.

Cut to recent years, and Levi’s continues to partner with big names who embody the 501’s air of authenticity. Recent collaborations with stars like Hailey Bieber, Jaden Smith, and Emma Chamberlain have brought the 501 to a new generation of fans who connect with the style in their own unique way.

“I draw parallels between the young people of the ‘60s and today in that they want an affordable garment that they can make their own,” says Panek. “They’re a generation that appreciates things that have history, so they’re shopping for these jeans in secondhand stores and sharing their finds on social media. I think being able to create and share what you wear is all part of the appeal.”

Finding Your 501 Fit

Aside from its rich history, if there’s one thing that sets the 501 apart from any other pair of jeans, it’s the variety of ways you can style them. “The 501 is not a fashion garment, but it becomes one as you wear it over time,” says O’Neill, referring to Levi’s signature shrink-to-fit jeans. Yes, you can still buy the rigid ones and step into a hot bath to mold them to your body, but other popular 501 styles feature slight variations to the original blueprint: the ‘81 features a slightly tapered leg and high waist à la the mom jean trend, while the ‘90s version have a slouchy fit and lower rise.

Those who like their jeans on the shorter side may opt for the 501 Original Cropped style (these fit petite women like a regular pair of jeans — a tip from Levi’s SVP and Chief Product Officer Karyn Hillman herself). As part of its 150th anniversary celebration, Levi’s has also released a limited-edition, hand-numbered countdown of archival 501 styles inspired by silhouettes going all the way back to 1873.